That’s likely lichen or moss. Both are natural and usually harmless to the tree. Lichens are a combination of algae and fungus and often indicate good air quality. Moss grows in moist, shaded environments. While they don’t damage the tree directly, their presence may signal conditions worth monitoring, like low light or poor airflow.

It depends on the species and the reason for pruning. For most trees, winter is the best time, since the tree is dormant, stress is minimized, and disease risk is lower. Some trees, like maples or birches, may bleed sap if pruned in winter, so timing may shift slightly. Emergency or clearance pruning can be done any time of year.

Yes. I offer professional tree and shrub health assessments. Many factors—pests, diseases, soil problems, weather events, or poor planting—can affect tree health. I use science-based diagnostics, including tools like a resistograph or lab testing, to determine the cause and recommend an appropriate solution. A $140 consultation fee applies for this service and includes a detailed site evaluation and follow-up recommendations. If you proceed with treatment, this fee may be credited toward the service.

A general inspection once a year is recommended for most trees. If your tree has cabling or bracing, it should be inspected at least annually to check the hardware. Trees with known structural issues under a mitigation plan should be evaluated after every major storm. Pruning is generally needed every 3 to 5 years for mature hardwoods.

The root flare is where the trunk widens and transitions into the root system at the base of the tree. It should be visible above the soil line. A buried root flare can lead to girdling roots, decay, and instability. Exposing the root flare through proper planting or air spade excavation helps the tree establish correctly and remain healthy.

Stakes should typically be removed after one growing season—about 6 to 12 months. They are meant to provide temporary support while roots establish. Leaving stakes on too long can damage the bark, weaken the trunk, and limit natural movement that helps strengthen young trees. If your tree is still unstable after a year, it may need further evaluation.

New trees need consistent watering, especially in the first two years. Avoid fertilizing during the first year and keep mulch pulled back from the trunk. Structural pruning should begin around year 2–3 to correct any early defects. I provide specific, written care guidelines with each planting and can offer additional support services if needed.

No. My role focuses on the diagnosis, planning, and consulting side of tree care. I’m a Board Certified Master Arborist specializing in tree health, risk assessment, and science-based recommendations. When a tree requires climbing, pruning, removal, or other work that involves leaving the ground, I collaborate with qualified industry partners. These crews carry out the physical work based on my prescriptions and under my supervision when needed.

No, I don’t offer a formal warranty on tree installations, as survival depends on many factors outside my control—such as weather, watering, soil conditions, and site care. However, I provide detailed follow-up care instructions and can quote optional follow-up services to improve establishment, such as watering support or soil care.